In general, wiring on boats should be of the stranded type, not solid copper wire used in household applications, which does not withstand the vibration found onboard a boat. The wire charts found in Chapman’s Piloting and other publications are all for AWG wire like that made by our supplier, Ancor, not SAE type wire. Most importantly, SAE wire is up to 12 percent smaller than American Wire Gauge (AWG) Boat Cable which means that, in many applications, larger gauge wire must be used to stay within the voltage drop limits recommended by experts (see our West Advisor Marine Wire Size and Ampacity). For safety, use only wire that is marked with size and type. They should not be used in applications where subjected to vibration or frequent flexing and must never be used for 110 volt applications. If conductors must be routed in the bilge or other areas where water may accumulate, the connections shall be watertight (11.14.4.1.5 ).” They should not be run in engines spaces, unless marked “oil resistant” and “75☌”. American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) standards include this requirement: “Current-carrying conductors shall be routed as high as practicable above the bilge water level and other areas where water may accumulate. These wires are designed for “surface vehicles,” not for the special requirements of the marine industry, but meet the minimum standards for boats in limited circumstances.Įven if tinned copper, your wiring should not be run in bilge spaces or other areas subject to moisture from spray or dripping. The answer to this common question is a qualified “yes,” if the wire is SAE (Society of Automotive Engineering) J378, J1127 or J1128. Notice the silver color of the conductors, because the wire is “tinned.” Can I use “regular wire” for my boat?Īncor marine-grade wire products are the longest lasting and most rugged available, exceeding UL 1426, ABYC and US Coast Guard Charter boat (CFR Title 46) standards. We’ll start with one of the most frequently asked questions-which kind of wire to use. This West Advisor will help you understand some basic standards and practices of DC marine wiring. Beyn’s The 12-Volt Doctor's Practical Handbook, so you really can learn to complete some simple electrical projects on your boat. Payne’s Marine Electrical Bible and Edgar J.
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If you’re not familiar with basic electrical practices and theory, hire someone who is, and let them install that new fishfinder, LED cabin light, anchor windlass or subwoofer! With that said, there are a lot of great resources that you can purchase from your favorite book store, like Don Casey’s Sailboat Electrical Systems: Improvement, Wiring, and Repair, John C. The amazing thing is how many of these rat’s nests of wiring actually work, for the moment. Something about 12-volt DC power seduces and encourages hack electricians to try their hand using household-grade wire and terminals. In my several decades of owning and working on boats, I have personally seen more examples of scary do-it-yourself DC electrical projects than any other type of boat equipment disaster. Don’t take shortcuts when wiring your boat, or you may compromise the safety of your boat and crew. This is critically important because, according to BoatUS Marine Insurance, problems with DC electrical systems are responsible for 32 percent of onboard fires, more than any other category of causes. Safety onboard begins with a reliable DC electrical system, properly installed with quality wiring, connections and components. Put it in a corrosive environment, where wiring and electrical components are subjected to more concentrated daily abuse than your family car will experience in five years, and it’s easy to see how small electrical problems can get out of hand very quickly. That same truism can be applied to your boat’s DC electrical system. Does your boat have a similar legacy of bad electrical work?
The amazing thing is that all of the systems still worked. Behind these gold-colored switch panels lurked a 40-year-old tangle of do-it-yourself wiring projects.
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